Why I've been pH testing my skin products
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I’ve started pH testing my skin products.
What does that mean? Well, do you remember those school science lessons where you had to dip strips of litmus paper into various solutions to test how acidic or alkalis they were? That’s pH testing.
Test strips bought on Amazon have provided insights into the acidity of my skin products
This new step in my otherwise unscientific lifestyle came about following my discovery that the pH level of products we use on our skin matters… a lot.
If our skin shifts out of its happy pH level too often for too long, it can lead to several problems including the potential worsening of acne and eczema.
This has become important to me after my unexpected skin drama that unfolded two months ago. See here for before and after photos.
And for an outline of my rollercoaster skin journey over several years; comprising chronic perioral dermatitis, staph, impetigo, suspected rosacea - plus, how I came out the other side and can write this today with calm and comfortable skin, click here.
A review in the Journal of Clinical Medicine states: “The acidic pH is critical to the overall function of the skin”
Back to pH now. The pH value scale ranges from 0-14. A reading of pH 7 is neutral (pure water is neutral). Anything higher is alkaline, and lower becomes more acidic.
Our skin’s surface is naturally slightly acidic, widely thought to be around pH 5.5. Although Dr Stefanie Williams, MD, London-based dermatologist and founder of award-winning skin clinic Eudelo, suggested it could be lower.
“It has been reported that the average skin surface pH in adults is actually 4.7, which is in contrast to the general assumption that skin surface pH is on average 5.0 to 6.0. A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science reported that the ideal pH level is in fact just below 5.”
Dr Williams added that women often have slightly more acidic skin compared to men - and that a surface above pH 5.5 can lead to instability and changes to the skin’s natural microbiome. "An acidic skin surface pH supports the skin’s barrier function and also helps fight infection," she said.
As one Journal of Clinical Medicine review put it: “The acidic pH is critical to the overall function of the skin.”
Dr. Kaveri Karhade, MD, a board-certified medical and cosmetic dermatologist in California’s San Francisco Bay Area told me: “Patients suffering from conditions such as atopic dermatitis and acne are particularly sensitive to imbalances in skin pH.”
In fact, alkaline skin has been associated with inflammation; acne, eczema and dermatitis.
“Patients suffering from conditions such as atopic dermatitis and acne are particularly sensitive to imbalances in skin pH”
So, what does this mean for our skincare products?
You might have seen adverts where brands describe their products as “pH balanced”. I never knew what that meant - until now. It means they’re claiming to have developed a lotion, cream or cleanser to match what they deem to be the skin’s natural acidity level.
Dr Williams told me: “Skincare products should ideally be in the range of 4.5 to 5.5. A slightly increased pH of 5.5 to 6.9, which is still acidic, albeit at a less physiological level, may still be OK in most cases, but anything above 7 (which is in the alkaline range) is really not ideal for the skin."
I asked Dr Jen Haley, MD - board certified dermatologist and host of the Radiance Revealed Podcast - for some advice on buying skin products that suit our natural pH level.
“Unfortunately, the qualities of a good moisturizer are much more complex than measuring the pH,’ she told me. “For people with dry, inflamed skin, I will typically recommend avoiding harsh alkaline soaps and instead choose a non-foaming gentle cleanser like Cetaphil. I will also recommend a moisturizing cream with ceramides to help protect and restore the skin barrier.”
Dr Haley recommends the National Eczema Association website as a useful resource for choosing a moisturizer.
A study suggested skin surface pH is on average below 5
Following a highly unpleasant skin staph infection last year, I wanted to keep my skin’s pH level in an optimally acidic range to help prevent bacterial growth.
Since home-testing with my new little strips (and by no means am I assuming they are faultlessly accurate), it surprised me to discover many of my products are less acidic than I now know is optimal.
For example, one of my hand soaps came out as high as pH 8, while an expensive facial mist, and one of my daily sunscreens all ranked at pH 7.
A miceller water I remove make-up with, a sensitive skin bar I use to cleanse, and my standard kitchen tap water all ranked at approximately pH 6.
I was delighted to discover my Vanicream body moisturizer tested at pH 4 to 5 on my little strips. I’ve since begun using it on my face (it’s non-comedogenic, so less likely to clog pores) and so far my skin feels great. See this page for an updated list of products I’ve been using with success on my sensitive skin.
“For people with dry, inflamed skin, I will typically recommend avoiding harsh alkaline soaps and instead choose a non-foaming gentle cleanser ”
It’s not only what you put on your skin that can influence its pH level
However, it’s not only what you put on your skin that can influence its pH. Dr Williams told me environmental factors play a role too, “including urban pollution, passive exposure to cigarette smoke, sun exposure, topical antibacterials, detergents, and even plain tap water contact.”
“It has been reported that the average skin surface pH in adults is actually 4.7”
Sometimes knowing what’s right for your skin’s unique needs is a guessing game. My pH test strips, at least in part, have helped me get closer to identifying what works best for my skin. They were an inexpensive Amazon purchase - and worth it.
I’ve started asking brands: ‘What pH level is this?’
Now when I see a product I like the look of, I’ve started asking the brand behind it, ‘What pH level is this?’. In an age of transparency and self-care, this seems reasonable to me.
Do some cleansers, toners and soaps leave your skin feeling dry and tight? Which products have you found feel most comfortable on your own unique skin?
UPDATE February 2023: I spent 14 weeks reviewing a brand of skincare designed to ‘lock’ skin at pH 4.7. I’ve become a fan of these products. Here’s my review.
Plus, here’s a page listing the skincare products I currently get on well with, explanations for why I use them, plus affiliate links to Amazon or other purchasing platforms.
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